Madeira, Worth Going Ashore

A volcanic island in the middle of the Atlantic, European in character, ancient in feel, and one of the more rewarding ports on any itinerary that includes it.
Madeira, Worth Going Ashore

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A Portuguese island with black volcanic beaches, mountain views, and food worth going ashore for

Madeira sits in the Atlantic Ocean, around 1,000 kilometers southwest of mainland Portugal and about 600 kilometers from the African coast. It is technically in the middle of nowhere, geographically speaking, but it does not feel that way when you arrive. The island is lush, dramatic, and distinctly European in the way that Portuguese territories tend to be, comfortable, well organized, with the particular quality of a place that has been inhabited and shaped by people for centuries without being in any hurry to modernize itself completely.

It is part of Portugal, which means the currency is the euro and the infrastructure is solid. For crew arriving after a run of Caribbean or transatlantic sailing, Madeira has the effect of a quiet reset, the kind of port where you can spend a day without urgency and still come away feeling like the time was well used.

Getting Into the City

The ship docks within walking distance of Funchal, the island’s capital. There are no shuttle buses to organize and no transit logistics to figure out, you walk off and you are effectively in the city. For a port with as much to offer as Madeira, that accessibility is a genuine advantage. It makes shorter stays more usable and removes one of the logistical headaches that characterize ports where the terminal is far from anything of interest.

A Practical Port for Practical Needs

Your draft makes a point worth repeating: Madeira does not have the inflated prices that people often assume come with island geography. Supermarkets in Funchal are well stocked and priced comparably to mainland Europe. If you need to top up supplies for the next leg of the voyage, or simply want decent food that is not from the ship, Madeira is a reliable place to do it without the sticker shock that some ports produce.

The island is also safe and calm in a way that requires no particular awareness or caution. You can walk around Funchal without concern, explore on your own without a guide, and generally move through the day without the low level alertness that some ports require.

What to Do With the Day

The cable car from Funchal up to the village of Monte is the most immediate thing to do from the port and one of the better introductions to the island’s terrain. The ascent covers around 560 meters and takes about fifteen minutes, with views of Funchal and the harbor opening up on the way up. At the top, the Monte Palace Tropical Garden is worth walking through, a large botanical garden with plants from around the world, a Japanese garden, and decorative tiles depicting Portuguese history. The Church of Our Lady of Monte, dating from 1741 and the most important pilgrimage site on the island, is also at the top and contains the tomb of Charles I of Austria, an emperor exiled to Madeira.

The descent from Monte is where one of Madeira’s more unusual attractions comes in: the wicker toboggan. Two sled drivers in traditional white clothing guide passengers down the steep streets of Monte in a wooden sled on runners, covering about two kilometers at modest speed. It is a genuine tradition rather than a manufactured tourist activity, the same method of transport has been used on these streets for over a century. It is available on demand throughout the day and costs around ten to fifteen euros per person.

Funchal itself rewards unhurried exploration. The Old Town area along the eastern edge of the center has restaurants, cafes, and street art along narrow cobbled streets. The Mercado dos Lavradores, the farmers’ market, is a good place to spend half an hour: fresh tropical fruits, flowers, and fish displayed with the particular abundance that markets in warm climates tend to have. Madeira produces a range of fruits that do not travel well to northern European markets, including passion fruit, dragon fruit, and the small sweet bananas the island is known for. Trying them here, where they were picked days rather than weeks ago, is worth the detour.

Cabo Girão, a short drive west of Funchal, is one of Europe’s highest sea cliffs, around 580 meters, with a glass floored skywalk extending over the edge. Looking straight down through the platform to the ocean and the terraced farmland on the cliff face below is the kind of experience that stays with you. It is accessible by bus or taxi and easy to combine with a morning or afternoon away from the city.

For a view of the whole island, Pico do Arieiro, the island’s third highest peak at 1,818 meters, is reachable by road and offers panoramic views across the mountains, valleys, and ocean on a clear day. It is genuinely high enough to be above the cloud layer on overcast days, which produces the unusual effect of looking down at clouds with blue sky above you. Taxis to the summit from Funchal run regularly.

Attractions Worth Knowing About

Levada walks. Madeira’s most distinctive feature is its system of levadas, narrow irrigation channels built over centuries to carry water from the wet northern slopes to the drier southern parts of the island. There are over 2,500 kilometers of channels across the island, most of them accompanied by walking paths used for maintenance that have become some of the island’s most popular hiking routes. The Levada do Caldeirão Verde and Levada das 25 Fontes are the best known, leading through laurel forest to waterfalls. Even a short section of a levada walk gives a clear sense of what makes Madeira’s interior landscape unlike anywhere else in Europe.

Laurisilva Forest. Madeira’s laurel forest is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the largest surviving example of the subtropical laurel forest that once covered much of southern Europe millions of years ago. It is ancient in the most literal sense, and walking through it has the quality of a genuinely old landscape rather than a managed nature reserve.

Porto Moniz volcanic pools. On the northwestern tip of the island, natural seawater pools formed by ancient lava flows provide sheltered swimming in Atlantic water. The drive to reach them passes through some of the island’s most dramatic coastal scenery. A modest entry fee applies.

Black sand beaches. Madeira’s volcanic origins mean that the island’s natural beaches are black sand or black pebble rather than the white sand of more tropical destinations. Ribeira Brava on the south coast has a beach and seawater pool, and the beach at Seixal in the north has a setting, backed by cliffs and surrounded by green hillsides, that is more visually striking than most white sand equivalents.

Câmara de Lobos. A traditional fishing village a short distance west of Funchal, with colorful boats in a small harbor, steep streets, and the particular character of a place where people actually live rather than a place arranged for tourism. Winston Churchill reportedly painted here during a visit to the island. It is worth an hour of wandering if you are heading toward Cabo Girão anyway.

Madeira wine. The island produces a fortified wine with a long history and a distinctive character, oxidized during production in a way that was originally accidental, discovered when casks of wine traveled through tropical heat and improved rather than spoiling. Most of the wine houses in Funchal offer tastings, often in atmospheric century old cellars. Blandy’s in the city center is the most accessible.

Madeira is the kind of port that crew members who have been there tend to look forward to on the next itinerary. There is enough to do for a full day and enough of a reason to simply sit with a coffee and not do very much at all.


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